Yaku’s AW25 presentation was transportive. Upon arriving show showgoers were handed a reptilian-bound ‘identity passport’. With questions such as, ‘What fuels your drive in life?’ And 'What are you working on within yourself?’, it was a curiosity-inducing start.
With a reflection pool positioned by the entrance, the guests sat around contemplating their identity passports. The thought behind the passports was to allow visitors to step into Yaku’s world and gain a sense of belonging. His world-building is meticulous, a friend joked that Yaku must be inspired by Runescape, (an online game) and it’s not a bad observation. The space did feel like an alien planet. The centre of the space had a box-like room that had been fashioned as, ‘Grandad’s workshop’, the exterior was hung with earthen fabric that had been printed to look as if cave paintings covered it.
However, the main focal point was the performance space. An otherworldly land had been built with cloth-covered rocks and wood pipes playing in the background. This was where the clothes were displayed. Yaku chose to use actors rather than models to present his garments as he wanted the characters that the actors represented to be as important as the clothes they wore. It was explained that each look was embodying a different member of his family, hence the necessity of actors. These ‘characters’ are not new to the Yaku universe but it was made clear that AW25 is the family’s final day before they enter the unknown.
The day in Yaku’s world lasted 25 minutes and so his models went about various tasks and rituals such as playing chess, chipping at stones and separating herbs. With the background and Yaku’s afrofuturistic clothes, it made an interesting union of ancient rituals and another world. Holding massive weapons like staffs with horned hoods the clothes did make the wearers seem otherworldly. Continuing his collaboration with Nike, the frayed fabric that made the shoes, did from a distance begin to resemble hooves.
Yaku’s attention to detail was admirable, he has shown a mastery of world-building and performance, something that the industry is often criticised as lacking. It was fun and compelling and it will be interesting to see what the family’s next adventure brings.