‘Messages to the Sky’, Pauline Dujancourt’s SS25 London Fashion Week debut, is a deeply personal exploration of hope, introspection, and empowerment, woven through a decade of inspiration and craftsmanship. The collection’s roots trace back to a pivotal moment in Dujancourt’s life, when, ten years ago, she visited Japan for the first time. There, at the entrance of a temple, she observed messages tied to ropes, a traditional custom where wishes and prayers are made visible. This scene, simple yet profound, ignited a vision that would carry through her journey as a designer, birthing a central motif in her work - the intertwining of intention, ritual, and fabric.
This quiet act of reflection - tying a message to the sky - became more than a singular inspiration for Dujancourt. It became a symbol of her creative philosophy, appearing throughout her work in the form of knots, ties, and interwoven textures that speak to the power of connection. Her designs echo this contemplative practice, embodying the tactile, physical manifestations of wishes, prayers, and dreams. The intricate craftsmanship that defines her SS25 collection reflects a blend of artisanal techniques, where each stitch, loop, and knot represents more than just material - it becomes a thread of intention, a symbol of personal and collective hopes.
The Parisian designer studied Fashion & Textiles at Ecole Duperre in her hometown before moving to London, where she graduated from Central Saint Martins' MA Fashion in 2022 and launched her label that same year, swiftly gaining recognition as a rising talent in the industry. Her work is supported by the British Fashion Council’s NEWGEN initiative and earned the distinction of being an LVMH Prize finalist in 2024 - she is also in Cohot One of The Fashion Residency at Studio Smithfield, delivered in partnership between the Mayor of London, Projekt and Paul Smith’s Foundation, supported by British GQ, marking her as one of the most exciting new voices in design.
The essence of the collection is Dujancourt’s passion for handcrafting materials. Inspired by ancestral techniques like hand-knitting and crochet, she explores texture with net-like stitches and smocked tulle adorned with metallic crochet strips, creating a balance between fragility and strength. Ribbons woven into the designs add intricacy, while ivory, black, and emerald green palettes evoke elegance and renewal. Birds, a personal motif for Dujancourt, appear subtly throughout the collection, from the airy materials to the emotional depth of each piece. Piupiu and Winnie, the designer’s flightless rescue budgies, are reflected in Dujancourt’s lightless, free-flowing garments - a message of resilience and power.
‘Messages to the Sky’ also illustrates the designer’s commitment to empowering women. Dujancourt collaborates with female artisans in France and Peru, providing them with opportunities for financial independence while honoring traditional skills. Through these partnerships, her work becomes not only a personal expression but a platform for social impact.
Pauline Dujancourt’s collection offers a poetic exploration of life’s complexities - hope, regret, and connection. Her designs blend personal history, ancestral techniques, and modern vision, creating a resonant and empowering statement.